Vancouver B.C. Ramen shops
VANCOUVER, B.C.
Kintaro
The ramen-ya that started the craze in Vancouver, Kintaro is still popular for its pork and seafood broth. The rolled pork belly is thickly sliced and fantastically fatty. Go for the food, not the atmosphere. (604)682-7568)
Motomachi Shokudo
The first thing you notice here at Kintaro’s younger sister restaurant is its contemporary, yet minimalist design. Chef/owner Daiji Matsubara intentionally went for older appeal, but Motomachi also draws young crowds. “Ramen is a never-ending pursuit of taste,” he says.The restaurant tends to have more female appeal than the traditional ramen shop, mimicking a similar trend in Japan. About the flower that comes on your tray Matsubara says: “Kaiseki restaurants always include that, and if you see it you feel calm… Sometimes it’s difficult for a woman to come by herself, so the flower welcomes her.”The broths are also different, highlighting organic, healthful ingredients. Whereas Kintaro uses a pork and fish double-broth, Motomachi substitutes mostly organic chicken (“Unfortunately, I cannot find organic feet,” Matsubara laments) to make broth that’s almost clear. Kombu, small anchovies, and bonito pack umami power to make a rich broth that’s not too fatty. Unique to Motomachi are the nama-shoyu ramen (made with unpasteurized soy sauce) that comes with the option of burnt onion oil, as well as bamboo-charcoal dark miso ramen—the charcoal said to be good for digestion, skin, and anti-aging.Asked about the appeal of ramen, Matsubara says, “The customer can get soup, vegetable, and meat all in one bowl… It comes together, and you can get full in a short time.”
Hokkaido Ramen Santouka
Santouka is contemporary, with its dark wood, stainless steel finishes, and open glass kitchen. This Japanese chain import boasts long lines, a testament to the quality, and serves its ramen lukewarm—claiming it’s the best temperature for tasting the flavors. (www.santouka.co.jp, 604-681-8121)
Benkei
Five locations around town offer five soup bases and a variety of toppings, allowing you to customize your bowl. Akaoni is my favorite, with spicy miso, fried green onions, and minced pork. (www.benkeiramen.com, 604-986-7777)
Ramen Jinya
Located in Yaletown, the new kid on the block is an offshoot of the popular Los Angeles ramen joint, which is connected to robata restaurants in Tokyo. Offering four tonkotsu and three chicken broth offerings, Jinya serves some of the most deliciously fatty chashu in Vancouver. (604-568-9711)
Suika
The diverse menu of this upscale izakaya includes a fabulous Tokyo-style oxtail ramen that is less beefy than it sounds due to the addition of a powder of katsuo, saba, and konbu at the end of the cooking process. It’s like a cross between ramen and Taiwanese beef noodle soup. (604-730-1678)
Nan Chuu
This izakaya on “Food Street” Alexandra Road in Richmond picks up where G-Men Ramen—the quintessential ramen shop with the most authentic Japanese feel—left off. After G-Men’s unexpected closure, its ramen chef, Minoru Suzuki, is now at Nan Chuu. He’s serving up the rich and intense tonkotsu broth in the evening (with choice of shoyu or miso tare), and planning to bring back the shoyu and shio bowls when lunch service starts. Other ramen shops may have better individual components, but when taking the broth, meat, egg, and other toppings as a whole, Suzuki’s soup can’t be beat.Typical of the Japanese, Suzuki (his business card says “Man in Charge of Nan Chuu”) is soft-spoken about his ramen. After an avalanche of compliments, he says, “Thank you for coming to Nan Chuu tonight, and please come back. I will try to make better ramen.” That’s the Japanese spirit, and the essence of ramen. (604-276-8391)
More ramen shops in Portland | Seattle
From our story Bowled over by Ramen by Jay Friedman
Photos: Jay Friedman
Read more in our November / December 2011 issue of Northwest Palate magazine.